Learning to surf – again

 

I'm a wannabe surfer. I first tried surfing in Scarborough, England. It was November, freezing cold and barely any waves, but I got a really good paddling practice with that. I went to Scarborough few more times with the uni's surfing society because that was the closest spot. 5/6 mm wet suit, boots and gloves were essential there. Over there I first learned how to get up on my feet on a surfboard. My next surf trip head to Tarifa, Spain for couple of days. There the waves were at least a little bit bigger than in eastern England. My friend and I walked around the surf shops asking if they had boards and wet suits to rent, and I still remember that sentence in spanish: Queremos alquilar dos tablas de surf y trajes de aqua. During those few times in the water I learned a little something but then came couple of years I didn't have any chance to go surfing.

Next time I tried was at Manly Beach, Sydney in 2008. I had forgotten everything, but the great thing was to surf in sunny weather, since in England and Spain I had only surfed in winter time. Then in 2009 I went to Zarautz, Spain for two weeks, which was minimum time since the surf condition varied from totally flat to really really hard stormy waves. Over there I finally had time to learn the basic stuff again, and I was even able to force myself to go to the line-up bit big guys and take couple of real green waves, not just the white wash. Next year I went to Peniche, Portugal for four days, but yet again a year had passed and it took me all of that little time to remember the basics. Now 2011 I went to Australia again, and found a greatest spot in Crescent Head, and got few of the best waves so far. Also the first ever surf pics of me were taken there, in the one above I'm finally learning to curve back!

Even if I still suck at surfing, all of those trips have been the greatest and I'm still keen to go and learn more. Let's see where and when is the next time, but sure it'll come soon.